Holidays in Japan

Sakura, Gardens, Martial Arts and the English Teachers in Japan, April 2007

 by

John McDonald, Region 23

Part 1: Tokyo – Kanazawa - Kyoto

With both daughters currently in Japan, the temptation to visit them both on my annual holidays was irresistible. I chose April because Sakura, the cherry blossom is an important part of the Japanese Year. Parks and gardens are full of revellers celebrating O’hanami, blossom viewing parties that are as meticulously planned as a Christmas dinner. From late February to early April the Japanese enjoy sequential blossoming of plum, peach and cherry trees, as the cold of winter retreats before the welcome Spring sunshine. But a visit to Japan is incomplete without consideration of its Martial Arts heritage, a stroll through its spectacular gardens or a trek over the countryside parks.

First stop was Tokyo, staying in Asakusa near Sensoji. Some cherry blossoms were only starting to open in Tokyo, but in Ueno Park, the daily celebrations were underway. Celebrants arrive in the late morning with a simple meal bought at the local convenience store or a with esky and gas cooker, over which they prepare a main meal for all to share, while tasting various entrees. Along the Sumida, night-time celebrations include feasting beneath illuminated trees or plying the river in brightly lit boats. Throughout the city however, the blossom attracted constant attention from locals and visitors, especially in Kokyo Higashi-Gyoen, Kitanomaru-koen (which includes the Budokan, known also to Dylan and Purple fans) and Rikugien. The neon nights are also an attraction.

I took day visits to Nikko, the temple complex and burial site of the early Tokugawa shoguns, and to Mito for the fabulous Kairokuen – known for its Plum Blossom, which unfortunately had finished.

For the martial artist, a visit to Tokyo is incomplete without seeing Sengakuji – the burial site of the 47 Ronin. This band of samurai retainers, who taking the law into their own hands, avenged the disgrace and death of their Lord and Master, in a manner which Japanese consider righted the wrongs done to him. Led by Oishi Kuranosuke, these warriors are respected for the display of the fundamental qualities of the martial artist – courage, commitment and perseverance. These are same qualities are that Kancho espouses as the only necessities for gaining black belt.

Second stop was Kanazawa on the east coast of Honshu, primarily to visit the wonderful Kenrokuen. But I also discovered the delights of the Nomura samurai house and Higashi Chayagai (geisha district). Many Japanese cities were completely destroyed in WWII, obliterating the urban landscapes of feudal times, but in Kanazawa some precincts survived any bombing, and are recognised as important heritage or national treasures. Over 90% of the castles in Japan are modern reconstructions, and here at Kanazawa-jo, is a display on the how various parts of the castle are constructed, even the walls.

Travelling to Kanazawa was my first real disappointment. I booked a Dream Express – an overnight bus, which helps save the cost of accommodation. I have only a vague idea of the route to Kanazawa, because in order to help travellers dream, all the windows are blacked out with thick curtains, as is the front of the bus leading to the drivers platform.

One place the Allied Powers did not attack was Kyoto, the third stop on my tour. Though largely modernised, Kyoto possesses so many historically listed temples important to Buddhism worldwide and to cultural Japan, the whole city, along with adjoining Nara, is World Heritage listed. Kyoto is a must for any visitor to Japan. With its low skyscrapers, wide, clean streets, low mountain ridge prominent to the east and driving on the left side of the road, Kyoto makes an Adelaidean feel very much at home.

To be in Kyoto for Sakura is akin to being at Lords for an Ashes Test, in Rome at Easter or in Rio at Carnevale. It didn’t disappoint, with the gloriously lit blossoms of Gion quarter and Kiyomachi at night-time and the daytime scenes over the canals, easily matching the better known and year round attractions of Nijojo, Kinkakuji, Ginkakuji, Ryoanji, Kiyomizudera and Heian Temple. What is not fully appreciated is that many of these temple areas also have extremely beautiful gardens especially Ginkakuji and Heian Temple. For the more worldly, Kyoto offers places of interest such as Umekoji and traditionally oriented shopping. It is also very much a modern metropolis with its stunning railway station.

I departed Kyoto sadly – it is such an interesting and amazing place; the Japanese Capital for 1,100 years. But as I travelled to Osaka, my thoughts occasionally and rudely interrupted by a rushing Shinkansen as it passed our slower train (which only travelled at 100 km/h), I was buoyed by prospects of soon luxuriating in the highlight of my trip – of meeting my lovely daughters on their return from India and Thailand.

End Part 1

 Part 1, Part 2, Part 3.